Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week--John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012--Photos + Video

Retro Elegant Homme:

30's Gangster Chic: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

As we all know, Bill Gaytten--former "Right Hand Guy" for fallen designer John Galliano--is at the helm of all things formerly touched by "the Man" himself. He designs Dior Pret-a-Porter and Christian Dior Haute Couture, as well as all the Galliano lines.

Bill Gaytten, John Galliano Creative Director/Designer

This past week, during Paris Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012/2013, Gaytten unveiled the latest for John Galliano Men. After looking at the runway photos and video, it was simply BEAUTIFUL! The theme was 1930's and the elegant, chic man of that decade. The show went through all the archetypes of a 30's Man--from the UBER Gangsters in patent leather trench coats and side-styled fedoras, to...

Newsboy Love: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Newspaper boys in newsboy caps (of course!) and shearling-lined coats. Outerwear--including jackets and blazers were belted or with their own built-in waistband--emphasizing the teeny-tiny waist of yesteryear (and of the beautiful male models!).

Slicked: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

Pants were either wide and lose or skinny/fitted. Big, metalized, patent-leather shoes and very, very slicked parted hair, finished off the total look. I almost thought I was looking at old photos of my Dad and my Uncle from when they were in their teens.

Football Goes Equestrian: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

The look was very Charles Lindbergh meets 1930's Football Hero meets Hollywood Star. There was luxurious fur shawl collars accenting semi-double breasted wool tweed coats, jodhpurs and even a vintage football helmet...or two.

Pea Boys: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

That's not to say that there was still a lot for the modern 2012 fashion-savvy man (with lots of money) to look at and incorporate into their wardrobe. Those aforementioned coats were GORGEOUS, the wide-legged "Clark Cable" pants were fabulously tailored and yes, I would even think about buying a riding pant--well, if I was 22 and had a 28" waist!

Violet Nights: John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013

For evening, there were deep purples, lurex, metallic's and an overall 1930's Dandy look that somehow looked relevant and oh-so-elegant--in 2012. At least to me.

Click Below for the complete Video of John Galliano Men's Fall/Winter 2012/2013:

Runway Report: Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012--Christian Dior--Photos + Full Runway Video!

Pretty Dior

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012 continues and up next is the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Collection. Designer Bill Gaytten (John Galliano's right hand for over a decade)--who was tapped as Galliano's replacement after his escandalo--showed his first pret-a-porter (ready to wear) collection for the famed house. How did he do? Well, according to the editors and press, pretty good. The reviews are in and at least, they were better than what he received from his Dior Haute Couture show several months ago.

Dior Creative Director Bill Gaytten

Now, I'm sure you have been keeping up with all the "Who's Going To Design For Dior" DISH, Gaytten was picked as the "replacement" but word has it that his bosses feel it's a "transitional" position. It has been rumored that possibly Marc Jacobs might take over the Creative Director position. I've read this, so I'm sure Bill has too. It it said that contingent to taking the job, Jacobs would need (among other things, MULTI-MILLIONS!) to bring his entire team as well. Makes sense. But where does that leave Mr. Gaytten. Who knows. As a result of this "I don't know how long I will have my job" situation, Gaytten and his design team, did a just-very-nice job. No earth-shaking editorially-KRAZEE garments here. Just pretty clothes. Very "Lady Dior". Very sellable, which should make the execs happy. But let's be honest, the House of Dior doesn't really care if the clothes sell. It's ALL about the perfumes, sunglasses, and purses darling.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

But back to Gaytten's collection: These were dresses, jackets, skirts, that one could actually SEE in the the Christian Dior boutiques--as opposed to what Galliano did--most of that was Runway-only (which made for great WWD covers and lots and lots of press--good or bad--which in the end, sold more perfumes and sunglasses!). For Spring 2012, Gaytten showed the famed Dior Bar jacket, the late 40's/early 50's style dirndl and pleated full skirts. The Pretty lady-like sheath dresses. Reds, bold prints, bolder sequins and very Upper Class French Aristocrat styles: First Lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. Totally.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

Capelet dresses were important, especially in light and airy gauze's, chiffon's and organza's.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012

In the end of the Christian Dior Spring 2012 Runway show, supermodel Karlie Kloss (far right) sauntered out in a beautiful black lace and chiffon high-necked gown with a sheer single-layer floor-length skirt. As she turned around, all you could focus on was, well, her cheeks--her derrière. It was perfect, of course. Hello, it's Karlie Kloss. But many an editor couldn't help but wonder if showing her "you-know-what" as the FINAL vision one saw in his show--was a subliminal sign to his bosses...

Click Below for the Full Runway Show of Christian Dior Spring 2012:

Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011--Dior!!!

Dior Haute Couture...sans Galliano:

Fashion Darlings: Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week began this past Monday and ended yesterday (I know, only three days!). So, naturally, I am here as your "Fashion Servant" to give you the highlights and my "Nick V. Two Cents" on what the top designers offered in terms of these rarefied hand-made $100,000+ clothes on the catwalks. These clothes are then either shown or lent to stylists for their famous Hollywood clients to wear to BIG Red Carpet events, given to fashion editors to feature in their magazines, or hopefully, ordered by that very small list of multi-millionaire clientele (estimated at just 400 in the entire World!) from Dallas to Dubai, Mumbai, Beijing and Shanghai.

First up: Christian Dior Haute Couture:

Cirque de Couture: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

This show, of course, was one of the most--if not THE MOST-anticipated show of the season. Obviously since, it was the first Dior Haute Couture showing following John Galliano's unceremonious departure and firing. Lots was expected of Bill Gaytten, who has taken over (for now) as the head of the Dior Design Team. He's been with John Galliano & Co. for over 20 years so if any one can sense what Galliano would have done and what direction he would have gone in, it would be him. Did he live up to this? It seems the reaction was mixed:

Here's a quote from Tim Blanks of style.com, of what he thought of the show and the clothes:
On the evidence of today's first Dior couture show without John Galliano, what happens is a misjudged effort to impress an alien thumbprint on an aesthetic that, for better or worse, is one of the fashion industry's most clearly defined......
Then came Karlie Kloss, dressed as a Pierrot, sad clown all alone in the spotlight as the soundtrack failed and glitter showered down. But the stardust missed her by this much. And that felt like some kind of crazy cosmic metaphor.
Ouch, I think...

Bronzed Twisted Princesses: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The show had three distinct sections. It began with lots of color, prints, stripes, all very "Cirque de Dior". Fall/Winter for the Dior Couture ladies will not be a dark and somber one. It also looked very 80's Neon/Maripol/Stephen Sprouse/Memphis Movement. The Dior Bar Jacket showed up several times, but somehow it's still didn't have the same effect when Galliano did his magic with it. The pleating, twisting and intricate draping that the Dior Couture House of petite mains are known for, was all there. But there seemed to be something missing...

Valley of the Dior Dolls: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The second section was a "Caftan" late 1970's "Disco" section and to be honest, after looking at the photos and the video, this was my favorite part of the show and I almost wish Creative Director Bill Gaytten and his Dior Design Team would have done a complete collection of Caftans, almost as a cleansing of the Galliano aesthetic. I just wished the entire show was ONE STRONG Statement a la "Flower Power Dior" (Fall 2010 Collection), "Dior Goes Equestrian" (Spring 2010 Collection), or "Tutankhamen Dior", but instead this one had several and they were rather incohesive. It should have been all "Caftan Valley-of-the-Dolls Couture!".

Petticoat Clowns: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Of course, in the end, there were Ball Gowns. Huge, entrance-making ones. This was supposed to be the "Grand Finale" but again, these out-of-control gowns fell flat--especially on a runway that was not wide enough for them (what happened there?). The gown above is the one Tim Blanks was referring to--the (somewhat sad) Pierrot Clown Gown. It is definitely difficult to carry on after Galliano and only time will tell, if he will succeed. Don't miss the designer (and his assistant Susanna Venegas) uncomfortable bow at the end of the video...

Click Below for Full Video of the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Show:

Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week Spring 2012: John Galliano

Galliano Without Galliano...

Swashbuckling Boys: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

Last week, The Fashion House of John Galliano showed the first Menswear Collection done without the name behind the brand. Galliano, in fact, was in court--in Paris--around the same time trying to give his version of what happened that fateful night and well, give his excuses for why he said the terrible things he said. In emotional testimony, Galliano blamed pressures of a pitiless industry for pushing him off the brink and into prescription drugs and alcohol addictions.

But the House that is owned by Dior President and CEO Sydney Toledano wanted none of that. Instead, the focus was on the collection designed by Galliano longtime collaborator Bill Gaytten, who has been with the company for over 20 years and in fact is still part of the Dior Design Team. Here's the ironic part of the Galliano Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: A lot of it looked as if it was an Ode to Galliano himself; one entire section seemed very "Galliano as The Muse": The Dandy hats with feathers, the open vests under bare torsos, the swashbuckling stylings, all of it. In fact, at the end, it was as if most of the Models were serious John Galliano doppelgangers--apologetically.

There were 4 distinct categories of the show: The John Galliano Bohemian Swashbuckler, The Effeminate School Boy, The Hipster in Silk PJ's and The Toreador Rocker Bad Boy.

Glee Chic: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This section of the "Geek-Chic School Boys" was great. I loved the color combination (not a surprise) and the soft pastels. Great ties as well. It was VERY "Harry Potter" meets "Glee".

Hipsters in PJ's: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This was the weakest section to me. It was almost like they decided "Hey, we need to sell some John Galliano Underwear to keep this House in the black, so send some guys down the runway in their skivvies". Some look almost saggy, like they'd been washed one too many times. But I guess, after seeing those silk pajama pants at D&G, it's now officially a "Menswear Spring 2012" Trend. Boys: Go get some silk printed pajama pants ASAP!

Bullfighter Rock-On: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

To me this was the strongest section. I loved the mix of Toreador chic and cool Rocker Boy. Skinny pants, pointed shoes, strong boxy jackets, lots of Toreador-like embellishments. I felt the new designer's voice was most apparent here and since this was the close of the show maybe it was to demonstrate the "new" House of John Galliano...without Galliano.

Click Below for the Full Runway Video of John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012: