Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week 2012: Lanvin

Urban Warrior!

Security Guard Chic: Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012

Lanvin Creative Director Alber Elbaz and Menswear Designer Lucas Ossendrijver began with the idea of creating a uniform for the "everyman". "Nothing is sexier than a Man in uniform" stated Elbaz and I couldn't agree with him more! Could you imagine the TSA Agents dressed in these ensembles!! Now that would keep me alert at the airport!

But being that the uniform theme was just the jumping off point, these outfits are really meant to inspire the man on the street and that is something I definitely think we will be seeing especially in the Chic boroughs of Paris and New York. I'm loving the Suit Jacket with shorts ensemble above!

Colored Crew: Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012

The middle section of the show gave us some great colored suits (a definite Spring 2012 Trend!) in interesting fabrications that weren't your basic menswear tropical wools. Loving the nipped in waists and slim cropped trousers (another Trend Alert!)

Military Mash-up: Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012

And finally, the show closed with a mix of military tailoring and Boho Chic prints that had the perfect balance of structure and fluid ease. Bravo! This is definitely a collection that will be an inspiration in menswear for seasons to come.

Click Below for an edited video of the Lanvin Menswear Spring/Summer 2012 Collection:

Runway Report: Paris Menswear Fashion Week Spring 2012: John Galliano

Galliano Without Galliano...

Swashbuckling Boys: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

Last week, The Fashion House of John Galliano showed the first Menswear Collection done without the name behind the brand. Galliano, in fact, was in court--in Paris--around the same time trying to give his version of what happened that fateful night and well, give his excuses for why he said the terrible things he said. In emotional testimony, Galliano blamed pressures of a pitiless industry for pushing him off the brink and into prescription drugs and alcohol addictions.

But the House that is owned by Dior President and CEO Sydney Toledano wanted none of that. Instead, the focus was on the collection designed by Galliano longtime collaborator Bill Gaytten, who has been with the company for over 20 years and in fact is still part of the Dior Design Team. Here's the ironic part of the Galliano Menswear Spring 2012 Collection: A lot of it looked as if it was an Ode to Galliano himself; one entire section seemed very "Galliano as The Muse": The Dandy hats with feathers, the open vests under bare torsos, the swashbuckling stylings, all of it. In fact, at the end, it was as if most of the Models were serious John Galliano doppelgangers--apologetically.

There were 4 distinct categories of the show: The John Galliano Bohemian Swashbuckler, The Effeminate School Boy, The Hipster in Silk PJ's and The Toreador Rocker Bad Boy.

Glee Chic: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This section of the "Geek-Chic School Boys" was great. I loved the color combination (not a surprise) and the soft pastels. Great ties as well. It was VERY "Harry Potter" meets "Glee".

Hipsters in PJ's: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

This was the weakest section to me. It was almost like they decided "Hey, we need to sell some John Galliano Underwear to keep this House in the black, so send some guys down the runway in their skivvies". Some look almost saggy, like they'd been washed one too many times. But I guess, after seeing those silk pajama pants at D&G, it's now officially a "Menswear Spring 2012" Trend. Boys: Go get some silk printed pajama pants ASAP!

Bullfighter Rock-On: John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012

To me this was the strongest section. I loved the mix of Toreador chic and cool Rocker Boy. Skinny pants, pointed shoes, strong boxy jackets, lots of Toreador-like embellishments. I felt the new designer's voice was most apparent here and since this was the close of the show maybe it was to demonstrate the "new" House of John Galliano...without Galliano.

Click Below for the Full Runway Video of John Galliano Menswear Spring 2012: