Project Runway Season 9 Recaps: Episode 11--Bird Inspiration

Ornithology Couture, Project Seamstress and Dreams of a Miss Universe National Costume Parade of BIRDS...

Project Birds: Now THIS is what I would LOVE to have seen--Miss Bahamas Universe 2011 Anastagia Pierre in her National Costume (Top), and Miss Bolivia Universe 2011 Olivia Pinheiro (Bottom)

On this week's Project Runway Season 9, the Challenge was to create a "High Fashion Runway Look" inspired by Birds. A cockatoo, An Amazonian parrot, and a raven. An owl was there but alas, it wasn't picked (it might have been fun to see the KRAZEE mess one of these contestants would have done with an Owl as a Muse!). Part of me secretly wishes some of the designers went all out "Miss Universe National Costume Parade of Nations" .

Polly Want a Gunn Cracker: Mentor Tim Gunn eying a cockatoo, Project Runway Season 9 "This is for the Birds" Episode

Project Runway Birds: Owl, Parrot and a Raven

Many designers have been inspired by birds of course, most notably, of course, the late Alexander McQueen comes to mind, especially his Spring/Summer 2008 Collection. Three dresses from that collection stand out as examples of "Bird High Fashion":

These are stunning creations that would of course definitely be in the "High Fashion Runway" category of the Challenge, but somehow, because of their overt homage to the birds (the exuberant feathers!), if one of our little 'ol Project Runway designers made one of these, they might have ended up in the bottom for being too "literal". PUHLEEEASE! But, moving on...

Cin-Anya-rella

Besides the Bird Challenge, the Project Runway vs. Project Seamstress Dilemma crept up once again in this episode. A LOT has been made of the fact that Miss Anya--or as I call her "Cin-Anya-rella". She :
A) Just learned how to sew (according to her only 4 months prior top arriving in NYC for the Season 9 shooting);
B) Has little construction knowledge and sometimes "forgets" to put an opening so an actual REAL PERSON can get into the garment;
C) That she just "whips" up creations like no one's business and "makes it work", and
D) The judges just keep letting her through and often times giving her the Win, even though it's been half-glued, half put together "on a string".

Most of the comments on my myLifetime.com BLOG have been, in fact, about how a lot of fans are "miffed" at this. And naturally, so were Joshua and Viktor, the "Sewing/Construction Stepsisters":

The "Sewing/Construction Stepsisters": Joshua McKinley and Viktor Luna

Now, let me get this off my chest: I side with the "Joshua and Viktor Stepsisters" on this but with a small "BUT". I am of the "school" that as a Fashion Designer, you MUST learn EVERYTHING and learn it WELL. And that includes sketching, pattern making, draping, as well as sewing. These fundamentals are essential, especially if you are just starting out and are a "struggling" designer who cannot afford a pattern maker, draper and/or a seamstress. When I was first starting out in this industry, I made most my stuff. I had to. I had no choice.

But...then , after I began my NIKOLAKI company in 2001, I hired seamstresses to sew my creations for me (they did a much better job!). But because I had that knowledge of construction, I could tell them--with confidence--of what TO DO and HOW to do it. In fact to this day, I sew a lot of my collection muslin's/toiles, only because I want to. But what does this have to do with knowing how to sew perfectly on Project Runway? Little. I sadly learned first hand, in my season--how sewing had little to do with the outcome. And it frustrated me, as it is NOW frustrating Joshua and Viktor. Anyway, if you want to read MY FULL THOUGHTS on this matter--click HERE, or keep reading below...

For now, let's just cut to the "Bird Fashions":

The Top:

Joshua McKinley: As I began this posting, I said I kinda wished I would have seen some "Miss Universe National Costume" Bird-inspired Gowns or looks because most of the designs left me wanting just a little more. I am sure that by now, these kids are creatively drained. And it's showing! But still, the judges had to pick their faves. Joshua McKinley's was good. LOVED the color, the one-shoulder drape. Very "Sophisticated 70's"!! Oh wait, WRONG Challenge. Ooooops, well, it still worked for this challenge, although would you really consider this high fashion?

Kimberly Goldson: She made this gown in THREE hours. Some of the wonky sewing shows this. But it's PROJECT RUNWAY not Project Seamstress! So, she's one of the top. I liked the gown. And I even liked the pearl trim so Boo Hoo Mr. Michael Kors!

The Winner was Anya Ayoung-Chee. It was edgy, directional, High Fashion and not so literal. More importantly: It WASN'T yet ANOTHER Anya MAXI DRESS! Yes, she forgot to add a zipper in her dress but she "made it work" on the runway. Jushua and Viktor were not happy. I think if I was standing there--and knowing that she had forgotten to even put a closure/opening...yeah, I would have been pissed too! But, again--I've gone through six years of "letting it go", so I know now that unfortunately, the judges DON'T CARE.

The Bottom:

Laura Kathleen: Pants were too tight and the jacket: too predictable. But can we talk about HOW STUNNING her model is???!!! Blessed thing couldn't walk on the runway though for some reason--the shoes must have been too small or too big (or maybe it was the too-tight pants!?).

Viktor Luna: One of the "Stepsisters" ended up in the bottom, because the judges deemed it too literal. the shredded raw-edged organza "feathers" were a bit much but I did like the painstakingly hand-shredding he was doing while in the workroom on this gown. I just wished he might have left it at that---oh and lined THE ENTIRE gown!

The Worst was Bert Keeter: Plain and simple, it was BORING. The Bustier was cut to perfection, though. But in a challenge that was supposed to be HIGH FASHION and inspired by GLORIOUS Birds, this just looked like a very nice dress at a Saks Fifth Avenue Fashion Show, in 1998.

And now, my Recap from the myLifetime.com BLOG:

Project "I Don't Care How She Gets Into It"

Anthony Ryan and his Hippy Dippy Navajo-print Girls are gone. Sigh. I fantasize that they're probably enrolling in a Women's Studies Program in New Mexico — with their mohawk'ed "Best Gay." For now, six designers are left. Now what? Here's a sampling: Birds, birds, and more birds, plus a head-to-head challenge with A LOT of twists and a $20,000 prize! There are glue-gun meltdowns and the infamous Project Seamstress or Project "Make It Work" Dilemma. It's enough to drive a boy to ... write a recap.

$20,000, Sweetie Darling
We begin with our fourth Advertorial Challenge (but who's counting!). This one is different. For starters, it's L'Oréal. Second, there are birds waiting for the designers back at Parsons as their next challenge is announced: they must create a high-fashion runway look inspired by a cockatoo, a parrot, a raven and (if you look closely …) an owl! The six designers are split into teams of two and given their Bird Inspiration. Anya and Laura get the raven, Joshua and Bert get "Sweetie" (how ironic) the parrot, and Viktor and Kimberly get the cockatoo. The owl gets left behind, unfortunately. Finally, what makes this challenge really different? The prize (besides the Marie Claire/L'Oréal advertorial): a $20,000 check. Shut. The. Front. Door.

Head to Runway Head
Twist No. 1: Instead of competing against the other teams, they are competing HEAD TO HEAD — against each other. As original as this "Head to Head" component was, I was a bit questionable of the idea: What if both members of a team were equally FABULOUS? What then? Moving on …

Twist No. 2: After the designers have been working for a full day, Tim walks in to announce that they are to create a SECOND look as well, and they are given $300! "Project Runway" has definitely upped the budget! I remember having $30 to make a flower dress!

Click HERE to read the rest... And don't forget to leave your Comments--I read them all!!!!

Project Runway Season 9 Recaps: Episode 10--The Unsophisticated 70's!!!

A Fashion History Lesson...Marc Jacobs Perry Ellis Grunge Redux, and 80's Vegas Hookers? Yep, It's Project Runwaaaayyyyyy!!

Bianca Jagger, 1970s, in Halston one-shoulder dress

This past Thursday on Project Runway Season 9, for the 10th Episode, the remaining designers were given a task: To create two looks that were "Inspired by the Sophisticated 70's". Many of them had quite a problem A) Knowing WHAT the 1970's were and B) Knowing what the "Sophisticated 70's" looked like. For some, BOTH of their looks were off the mark or they either (somewhat) got it with one and not the other. Tim Gunn reminded them not to be "too literal". He deferred to the previous challenge in which it looked as if they were trying to make costume recreations of what they "thought" a 70's Rock Band should look like. I actually wished they would have been LITERAL for this challenge, because the creations might have been much, much better. So with that in mind, I thought I would take a look back at what actually was The Sophisticated 70's:

Liz Taylor, Halston and Bianca Jagger (yet again!), in a one-shoulder Halston waist-tie dress and Fox fur stole.

A Halston vintage early 70's (I know, looks VERY 2011!), one-shoulder side gathered gown with batwing sleeve

Lauren Hutton, 1973 U.S. Vogue Magazine editorial, photographed by Richard Avedon

This IS NOT Sophisticated 70's:

Bert Keeter: Bert made this mess of an outfit, which included a printed one-shoulder (well, he got that right) blouson top and a detachable matching skirt (why?) with (wait for it), black Hoochie Shorts and then accessorized it with the most AWFUL metallic and wood CLUNKER shoes. She looked like a 1983 Hooker in Las Vegas Strip.

Kimberly Goldson: She made this printed top and black skirt outfit that was NOT Sophisticated nor 70's inspired. She looks like a girl in a mall on her lunch break waiting for her Chick Fil-A order.

The Winners were:

Anya Ayoung-Chee: She created a printed (love the bold print, that's very "sophisticated 70's) palazzo-pant plunging neckline jumpsuit. I can see the nod to the 70's but yet, it's still so NOW. I can see a A LOT of girls wearing this at a Mondrian Sunset Blvd. VIP pool party.

Bert Keeter's 2nd creation: A simple two pattern piece (one front, one back) dress in lurex creme and gold jersey, tied with a spaghetti belt. "Someone" better watch his back, because the simplicity (2 pattern pieces) and casual "I'm getting on a yacht to Capri" look of Bert's winning "tank dress" is very...

Michael Kors Resort (above)

Both Anya and Bert won the honor of having their outfits sold on Piperlime.com. And in case you're wondering Anya and Bert are not making a dime from that (people always wonder and ask...)

The Un-Sophisticated Bottom Boys:

Joshua McKinley: Joshua got slammed by the judges--critique-wise. I didn't hate it (except for the belt and shoes). It was very Christian Lacroix in its bold print and bold fuchsia-colored blouse. But there was NOTHING 70's about the look.

The Worst:

Anthony Ryan Auld: But it was mohawk cutie Anthony Ryan who got the boot this week. BOTH his creations were completely off the mark. The judges deemed his girls sad "hippy-dippy girls in a cult". Yes, I get that. But, for me, the one above looked like a Hipster Silverlake girl waiting for the Food Truck to come...in 2002.

And poor thang above: Besides the fact that there's nothing "Sophisticated 70's" or even 2011 Fashionable about her, she looks like a Freshman at some college hoping to get into that "Woman's Studies" class. Or, she works for National Geographic and is about to head to New Mexico in a dinosaur dig.

It's also very Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis 1992 Grunge Collection, but not in a change-the-fashion-world sort of way...

I'll end with the above: The Tom Ford debut Spring 2011 Collection, which WAS inspired by the "Sophisticated 70's" just as a reminder of what y'all should've, could've, would've...done.

Without further ado...Here's my myLifetime.com Recap of this week's Project Runway Episode:


Hello, Blog Readers! Can you believe we've made it this far? (Don't answer that! It's a rhetorical question!) I LOVE reading everyone's comments, because they are always enlightening, thoughtful and make me feel at least somewhat "sane" when I get some people agreeing with me. I've discussed Joshua M. being a Mean Girl, and you agreed. I've also talked about Madonna — I mean Olivier — and my distaste for his "I Hate Fat People" comments. And, yes, y'all agreed. So, let's see if you agree with me on this week's analysis … Let's begin this week's Recap:

Last Week Was NOT a '70s Challenge!
We are now down to seven designers, and Heidi tells them that they will have to "look to the past" for inspiration. First thing I thought was, "Oh, Ol' Man Bert should do well!" Cut to the Parsons workroom. They meet up with Tim Gunn and Heather Archibald of Piperlime, who tells them that they are to create a look inspired by the "Sophisticated '70s," and that the winning look will go into production and be sold on Piperlime.com. Instantly, the designers scoff, saying, "Well, the last challenge was '70s and that didn't go so well ..." Oh, sit down, kids. Poppa Nick needs to discuss something. Here's a news flash: Last week's challenge WAS NOT '70s! See, that was their problem. The Challenge was actually to Design a Look for a Rock Band. That shows you how much these designers didn't "get it." And by their comments in last night's episode, they still don't.

Bring a Purse to Mood, Ladies
They all go to Mood and Miss Anya loses her money (A very "Amazing Race" lose-your-passport moment!) and is generously given $11.50 by Anthony Ryan to buy one piece of fabric. If ever there was a Make It Work moment, it is now. There have been many "limited budget" "Project Runway" Challenges in the past, but never one in which one contestant had $11 and the rest had $100. If Anya hadn't already secured her role as Fan (and Judges') Favorite before, she sure has now!

To Read the rest of my Recap, click HERE---and make sure to let me know what you thought!

Project Runway Season 9 Recaps: Episode 9--Bears, Sheepdogs and Woodstock Hippies!

A Very Hair-y Bear-y Sheepdog-y Project Runway

Last night, we had another episode of Project Runway Season 9. As always, there are several things I need to get off my HAIRY Chest:

First, What Does A Musical Revival of "Hair"...

Bad Brady Bunch Hippie Halloween Costumes...

"Massive" Men...

And Gay Bears...

Have In Common? According to last night's episode, A LOT--The Challenge was to create a look and "image" for The Sheepdogs, an up-and-coming band from Saskatoon Saskatchewan (say that three times!). They beat out 15 other bands to win Rolling Stone's "Choose The Cover" contest. They were the first unsigned band to do so, in fact. Oh, and they are all MEN!

And the designers were not happy--to design, create, and fit, men's clothes, that is. The results were worthy of many many MANY Michael Kors one-liner zingers! In fact, so many, that this week provided enough Kors-isms to last through an ENTIRE season! The Sheepdogs told the designers that they liked a 70's Boho/Hippie-but-2011-Hippie Vibe. The designers took that too far. The clothes were cartoony and costumey, for 98% of them. Madonna British-accented Olivier who is a specialist in Menswear did not fare well.

Speaking of Olivier...this episode stood out for his insensitive and almost body-dysmorphic remarks against anyone who wasn't a size 2. He called his client, the lead singer Ewan Currie "MASSIVE" (he's not!). And it didn't end there, Olivier went on and on about not liking to design for "Plus Size" and that he got "The Fat One". Boy, did I just want to dump Olivier in a (Name your Local Gay Bear Bar) and have my MASSIVE Boys at him!!!

The Hippie Winners and The Woodstock Losers:

Joshua McKinley's creation for bass player Ryan Gullen: It was a costumey and reminiscent of a local community college musical performance of "Hair", but DANG, those pants fit very well.

I didn't like those contrast back patch pockets though. No need for those. A little too "Fashion School First Semester Project".

Bert Keeter's look for lead singer Ewan: He looked like a Viking during Oslo Norway's Gay Pride. And I actually mean that in a good way. Not sure if the braids were necessary, but at least the rest of his look was not a "Hippie Chick" costume.

Viktor Luna's look for guitarist Leot Hanson: The jeans fit well and that fringed-and-braided jacket was outstanding. Not so sure about the tucked-in shirt. Most "rock-band"/musicians do not do TUCK-IN's but he was the Winner.

Now, The Bad:

Anya Ayoung Chee's look for drummer Sam Corbett: Huuuuuney!!! What. Were. You. Thinking? That is a Dashiki Don't. Kors, and guest judge Adam Lambert were having a field day with this one, saying that it reminded them of something...

Greg Brady wore on the "Brady Bunch"

And poor Sam, he got it AGAIN--this time from another designer, Kimberly Goldson. He looks like he sells some really cheap--and bad--pot somewhere in Amsterdam! Supposedly Kimberly is "famous" for her pants...but these were one of the WORST pair I've ever seen; too big, too loose, too much rise. I think Sam should get a special "Good Sport" award just for dealing with the embarrassment.

But the BIGGEST LOSER--Massive in fact--was Olivier "I Hate Fat People" Green and his design. At least he mitered the print down the center front and it wasn't straight out of "Hair". But, the shirt was too lose, too cropped, and the entire look had no Design "It" Factor. Anyway, I think just for being so UGLY to Ewan, he should've gone home anyway.

Now that I've quickly summed up my "Main" thoughts--Below you can begin reading my "Extended Version" and what I REALLY thought of this week's "Image Is Everything" Episode on myLifetime.com:

The episode begins, and once again, within 30 seconds, there are two ominous hints at what’s to come: Anya’s can’t-sew issues and Olivier’s time-management problems are both quickly revisited. Unless the editors are trying to throw me for a loop, I just have a feeling one of these two is going home. And I just KNOW it isn’t Anya — those judges have drunk the Anya Kool-Aid, and they’re not sending her back to Trinidad and Tobago, that’s for sure! Oh and yes, Olivier still hates fat people …

Musique C’est Chic
Let’s begin. Last week, the designers thought that they were designing for men — when they saw nine guys walk onto the runway — and they weren’t happy. But as “‘Project Runway’ luck” would have it, they had to create looks for the men’s respective girlfriends/wives. Whew! That was a close one. Well, kids, don’t do the “happy dance” just yet. This week, the designers head out to Rockwood Music Hall, where they meet up with Monsieur Gunn and Peter Butler, Consulting Stylist for Garnier. There, Tim tells the designers that fashion and music are forever linked, adding, “Think The Beatles and,” um, “Lady Gaga.” (I know that took A LOT out of Tim to even mouth —the Lady Gaga part, that is).

The Dogs Get Groomed
It turns out that Garnier and Rolling Stone magazine have partnered to showcase a new band, The Sheep Dogs. Here’s the first catch: The “Project Runway” contestants would be responsible for creating the band’s fashion image, and the winning look would be worn by a band member at an event as well as be featured in a Marie Claire/Garnier advertorial. Here’s the second (more important) catch: They’re ALL men! Yes, kids, this is THE Menswear Challenge, officially. Third catch: They must work in teams ... again.

Click HERE to read the rest of my Recap...and leave your comments on the site! I read 'em all!!!

Project Runway Season 9 Recaps: My myLifetime.com Recap for Episode 8-- "Double D Drama"!!!

First Things First, Project Runway Season 9 Designer Olivier "Madonna Accent" Green Doesn't Like Big Boobies or...

"Bigger Boys": Men who are not Man-o-Rexic (like the one seen above--"thicker" Vivienne Westwood model (and bodyguard) Sergio Lo Re)

Oh poor skinny Olivier. Last night on Project Runway Season 9, the kids (and Bert!) had to work with CLIENTS. At first, they thought it would be MEN--as the episode began with Heidi bringing in nine men of varying sizes, onto the runway stage. This is were the GASPS of "Oh No Child, I ain't working with the 'Fatties' " came out of Olivier's lips. Soon, though, it turned out that the designers were creating looks for the men's girlfriends/wives. And here again, Miss Olivier was having issues not knowing what a Double D meant, because that was his client's bra size. Oh Bless His Heart! As I say in my Recap (beginning at the end of this POST), he has BPB, Body Prejudicial Behavior , and it needs to stop.

Malin Akerman, actress...NIKOLAKI runway Model???

Actress and Project Runway Judge Malin Akerman (above center) and Model Malin Akerman (left and right images) at NIKOLAKI Fall 2003 Runway Show

Yes, kids, last night's "Guest Judge" was the beautiful actress Malin Akerman, who back when David and I debuted our NIKOLAKI Fall 2003 Collection 8 years ago at Los Angeles Smashbox Fashion Week, was one of our runway models!! And did a fantastic job, I may add!

Now, Let's Get To The Fashions:

This simple black dress--straight out of Ann Taylor or Nordstrom--WON. It was "Mean Girls" Joshua McKinley's design. It was made well and fit his client to a "T".

It was a very simple design--consisting of a CIRCLE SKIRT and a Princess-seamed bodice--but he was praised for it. Whereas his fellow designer Bert Keeder--who also did a simple sellable design--was not, and in fact ended in the bottom. I don't get it. OK, so he added the wide Horsehair trim at the hem, but...that's not so original, take a look:

John Galliano for Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2008

My Favorite was:

Viktor Luna's colorful, quirky, stylish look. I still do not know how he did not win. It was fashion-forward, extremely well made, and styled so right that it looked as if it BELONGED to her!!!

Another design that ended in the Top was Anya Ayoung Chee's one shoulder printed high-low gown/dress with a modified "kimono" sleeve. The judges LOOOVED it! It was as if it was the "Next Coming of Fashion Christ!". Not so much in my eyes. I know the client liked it but I was surprised it garnered such praise from the judges. Now, what I could imagine is...

If she was a Miss Universe contestant touring the nightclubs in São Paulo, then yes, totally, this is HER DRESS! It was very Beauty Pageant "Evening Gown Competition, the What Not To Wear" edition (see gowns above).

Kimberly Goldson's design for her client was um, TIGHT. As in fit. Kimberly seems to love doing those too-tight mini's. It's "her thang" I guess. I just don't know if a mini was the right choice for her client. But I did like the top's draping. Interestingly enough, she seemed to have been doing a completely DIFFERENT dress when she first began working in the Parsons Workroom:

I kinda like the one above better.

Now, back to Body Prejudicial Behavior Olivier: His outfit was a MESS and looked A LOT like what he always does! Somehow he ended up safe and in the "Middle". He should have been in the bottom with this badly-fitting pants ensemble. That too-tight one-shoulder top is SO NOT for a 40-something year-old woman who has Double D breasteses. She looks like one of those "Real Housewives of Orange County" sans the tan. Let me bring up "Old Man" Bert again: What he created was well constructed and flattered his client but he was penalized for basically doing the same thing week after week. In my eyes Olivier made a poorly constructed garment AND does the SAME THING week after week! The judges seem to "pick & chose" but we all knew that...

But the Worst Was:

Pepto Bismol Cocktail: Contestant Bryce Black created this pink sheath dress with too-low stylized outside pocket, straight out of my Helen Joseph-Armstrong "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" textbook from FIDM. The seams were all puckering and it looked very amateur. Another casualty of a person whom I feel was too young and not ready to be on Project Runway. Bryce was barely out of school for goodness sakes! Get some training, some years under your design belt and then do the show...He gives new meaning to the phrase "Not ready for Primetime"!!

And now...Here's My "Nick V" myLifetime.com blog for this week's Episode:

"DOUBLE D DRAMA"

Last night was the 8th episode of "Project Runway" Season 9. And Bryce was OUT …Yes, I just told you how it ends. Why? Because the editors ruined it for me too: The episode was barely 30 seconds in when Bryce laments that he’s never won a challenge — and in fact, has been at the bottom several times —and is wondering if he's the “Weakest Link.” Um, Ya Think So??? I immediately exclaimed (in my loud voice), “He's GONE!!” (Thanks, Editors). Oh, and did I mention Joshua won? Yep. Sorry to ruin that for you, but right as the nails were being pounded into Bryce’s "Project Runway" coffin, “Orange-ua Joshua” was stating how he was in a “Much better place today” ... Seriously, RIGHT AFTER Bryce. Thanks, Editors, Part Deux.

Body Prejudicial
Now that I got that out of the way, let’s talk about the rest of the episode. The nine remaining designers (can we just get to the Top 5 PLEASE???) are sitting there as Miss Heidi Klum brings in what they think involves their next Challenge: nine men. Immediately, the Gay Claws start coming out as several of the designers don't want to pick “the Fatties” (Yes, I am talking to you, Madonna British Accent Olivier!). Jeeeesus! Now even the men have to deal with what women have been dealing with for AGES from these “kooky” Fashion Designers; it’s a syndrome I call BPB, short for Body Prejudicial Behavior, and this group has it in spades...

Click HERE to read the rest of my Recap--and be sure to leave me your Comments!! I read ALL of them!!!! (of course!!!)